It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – July 2020
by Angela Lassam

In our gardens during the Summer we look forward to watching the hummingbirds feeding and the Monarch butterflies settling on the milkweed that we grow specifically for them. Both are in the group called pollinators although we think only of the bees and other flying insects. Our gardens need these to pollinate our plants to produce food. Every year gardening is a challenge but there is the constant balance of our plants and the butterflies and birds. 

Monarchs are the butterflies most people are familiar with as they are on the endangered list and there has been plenty of exposure and speculation to their demise. They are the big orange and black butterflies that arrive from Mexico in June who are searching for their host plants milkweed to lay their eggs on. The eggs are very small and pale green. They can be found on the underside of the leaves. They feed on the sap which is toxic to any predators (including humans). The caterpillar is quite large and a vivid green and yellow. It remains on the host plant feeding. When it is time to pupate it moves to a nearby bush even into lavender. The chrysalis is a pale green pendular shape and the butterfly emerges and feeds on the flower nectar. Other plants they like are butterfly weed (a bush) which is orange, purple coneflower and liatris. They migrate south to Mexico usually in groups in September. They can be seen resting in the evening on the lakeshore trees in huge numbers if you are lucky.

There are many butterflies that visit our gardens and the Swallowtail is worth a mention too. This is the large black and yellow one that lays eggs on the parsley and carrots. The caterpillar is similar to the Monarch but added white stripes and devours all foliage as it grows. Parsley is considered a sacrificial plant to grow to help the eco-system of our gardens.

The arrival of hummingbirds to our gardens lets us know summer is here. They return to the same place from the far south to breed and will leave again the end of August /September. They are the most recognized and popular small birds and encouraged to our yards with sugar feeders (homemade nectar is easy with one part sugar to four parts water changed every two days). They eat half their body weight daily consisting of nectar and insects. You cannot miss the ruby-throated hummingbirds as they have an iridescent green back, white bib with a red spot above on the male and a long beak, only weighing approx. 4 grams. They hover by the feeders or flower heads to feed and a thrumming sound of their wings can be heard. They are speedy flyers and can fly in reverse and vertically, making them a pleasure to watch. Common flowers to grow for them – Trumpet vine, daylilies, cleome, petunias and any trumpet-like flower head.

They make a tiny nest of leaves, lichen, moss and spider webs and lay two eggs, well hidden from predators like bats. They are hard to find as they are only the size of a walnut shell. The mother is the sole caretaker. Adults usually live three to five years. 

These are just a few of interesting facts but for a detailed website look at  https://www.discoverwildlife.com/animal-facts/birds/facts-about-hummingbirds/ 

For great information on migrating patterns take a look at www.journeysnorth.org where you will find maps for various sightings and other information.

There is still no activity for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society. Check out the website www.tillsonburghortical.ca for any updates. When there browse the archives of It’s Still Just Dirt. Also  take a look on Facebook – Tillsonburghorticultural and become a friend. Stay well and stay safe!

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – June 2020
by Angela Lassam

Everywhere you look there are hanging baskets and patio containers full of color to brighten our outdoor living spaces. They will not stay that way without some care and attention. There are three things you must do to keep them looking as good as when they were purchased – watering, fertilising and deadheading.

Watering daily may not be necessary depending on where they are placed. Check the moisture in the pot first, then if needed you can water until the water runs out the bottom. Many pots are very full so heavy watering is necessary to get to all the roots. A good check to see if you are watering properly is to lift the pot before watering. If it is light and the soil is light brown it needs water. A light sprinkling is not enough and can damage the leaves.

Planters and hangers that you buy, normally have a hole for drainage but if you assemble your own make sure there is adequate drainage in the bottom. If there is no hole you must make one otherwise your plants will remain water logged and get root rot. Patio planters will benefit from being slightly raised off the ground, porch or deck. A hoop of some sort or a trivet– check out the $ store is a suggestion.

To keep your plants growing well they will need fertiliser at least once a week. Usually it is powder which is mixed in a watering can and poured on the soil, not on the leaves as if they are too warm they will burn. There are fertilisers especially for good blooming and worth the investment as a container will go a long way and if stored correctly it will last a long time. Fertiliser is an important part of keeping your planter vibrant and continuously flowering. It is better to start with a solution of half strength. Make it a weekly routine to fertilise all containers. Most arrangements have a slow release fertiliser added before it is sold. Home planted ones will need this when planted as well as regular fertiliser watering. Miracle Gro make spikes or sticks specifically for this. 

A daily thing to do when checking the dryness of your containers is to deadhead which means to remove all dead flowers and if necessary dried, damaged leaves. If the heads are left on they will form a seed and not continue blooming. Later in the season you can cut back the long  ‘leggy’ ones and they will branch out again making new growth. Some gardeners take the main bloom away as soon as they buy their planter to allow the plant head to split into many bracts making more flowers per plant. As the season flows you may need to remove dead or unsightly plants and replace with later flowering ones. This adds the chance to follow the flowering season.

When a container is not doing well consider moving it as there are both shade lovers and sun worshipers in flower categories and plants are not usually labelled so it can be difficult for a first-time buyer. Try to ask at the nursery as it will make a big difference to your display of summer color. Begonias, fuchsia, impatiens especially the African type, coleus and trailing lobelia all prefer shade.

People buy flowers to surround us with color but whatever you grow take the time to enjoy the bright natural colors that summer gives us. 

The Tillsonburg Horticultural Society is continuing with a Covid 19 watch and will inform members of any updates so watch Facebook or check in on the website www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca . Meanwhile be well, be safe.

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – May 2020
by Angela Lassam

At last we have arrived at the point where we can sow seeds and put plants directly in our gardens. Many new gardeners have already grown some seeds indoors and now is the time to watch them thrive outside in the sunshine. It is a busy time for all gardeners but for people new to gardening it is another world of unknown. Last month it was all indoors but now everything moves outside. Thankfully nurseries and garden centres are open with many plants and staff willing to give any advice needed. Support for local businesses is vital for the community during these uncertain times.

 I wanted to write the simplest way to help new gardeners so that they are not overwhelmed by the task but can enjoy the journey of the season. True gardeners already know all the following so please think of all those that have never had the time or inclination to learn before. 

Many new gardeners are doing raised beds as a starting point but there is very little difference to growing directly in the ground. The soil has to be tilled or prepared for the seeds where you plan to have your vegetables. Weeds that have popped up as the weather has warmed up need to be removed. If you have a plan already, now is the time to collect everything you need to get started. You will need your seed packets and markers for the rows, a line of string or a stick the length of your raised bed if that is where your garden will be and a hoe and rake to complete the task. Remember to have water nearby, a watering can or hose pipe is needed for the future as well as to settle the soil after planting.

Starting with your layout and seeds, check the packet instructions for depth and spacing. Mark a line in the soil and follow instructions for placing the seeds. Set a marker at both ends of the row and fill in with a rake. Continue with all seeds. Remember to plant only half of a row now and leave space for a later planting. This is essential to get fresh vegetables all season. Carrots, peas, beans and lettuce are the vegetables that people try first. Peas will need a fence or netting to grow up and it is easier to do this now. Pole beans will need a form of support as they grow. Planting in a circle and doing a teepee of canes or sticks over them is an easy way. Squash need a lot of space and can be trained to grow up a piece of wire netting with framework set on an angle.

Next after buying popular plants like tomatoes, peppers, cucumber and zucchini from any nursery or garden centre dig a small hole and water the hole. Take the plant and soften the bottom where the roots may be hard and place in the hole replacing soil round it. Gently firm the soil and water again. Put a tomato cage over the plant or use a stick for support. You can mulch between rows to keep weeds out but it is as good to hoe between the rows to kill the weeds. At that time you can see any problems with your vegetables and take out diseased plants or thin out to allow better growth. You need to water as the soil dries especially after planting new seeds later in the season. 

Remember to buy some herbs and annual flowers to keep pests and insects away and to encourage bees for pollination. Basil planted by your tomatoes will add some sweetness and marigolds will deter insects. Alyssum is another popular flower to add as bugs do not like its smell. Tomatoes will not do well near beans and need lots of space so remember to allow for growth when planting.

 Gardening is a great hobby, it feeds both body and soul so go outside and start your garden. Then enjoy the food that you have produced and experience the better flavours. There is great satisfaction to be able to do this and an added bonus to be able to show children where some of our food comes from.

Due to the Coronavirus Covid19 all Tillsonburg Horticultural Society activities have been cancelled until further notice. Further updates can be found on the website www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca and on Facebook – Tillsonburghorticultural. 

by Angela Lassam
It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – April 2020

We are all wondering where we will be in the coming months. The STAY AT HOME rule has been difficult for some of us especially the on the go families who had many activities to keep them busy. There has been an upsurge in people researching ‘grow your own food’ and many of you are first time gardeners apart from cutting the grass and planting a few annual flowers. Check out  www.savvygardening.com  and a Facebook group called Ontario Gardeners which is a great source for information. Now that you are considering growing vegetables and even some fruit I thought some basic knowledge should be shared.

Before you start any actual gardening you need to look for a sunny south facing spot, remember the sun rises in the East and sets in the West so watch for your day shadows. Set out your design with the wider part facing the sun. This will allow you to grow the shorter vegetables in the front progressing to the largest towards the back. Seed packets give you all the information you will need to do this.

Next decide whether you are going to have a raised bed or directly on the ground. Sometimes it is easier to do a raised bed as turf can be difficult to strip. A raised bed can be made from concrete blocks or wood – cedar or untreated 2’’ x 6” would work well. You will only need to do an 8’ x 4’ bed to start as it is easier to manage and you will be surprised how much you can grow in that space with some planning. My suggestion is to line them by placing old newspaper or cardboard in the bottom to supress weeds especially grass and fill with topsoil.

Next is to decide what you would like to grow. Buying your seeds is simple – even the grocery stores usually have a seed stand or check with local nurseries and order seeds for curbside pickup. They can be found on Facebook where you can message an order.

 The easiest and most common vegetables are peas, beans, carrots, beets and Swiss chard. Small vegetables could be radishes, lettuce, spinach and some herbs. Trailing plants are generally zucchini, cucumber and squash (these need space so plant in a corner or one end and allow to trail outside the bed or set up a trellis). A planned layout on paper will keep you on track for when you start to sow the seeds. All spacing and other information is on the back of every seed packet. It is common to set rows at least 18” apart but in raised beds they can be nearer.

 Lastly tomatoes and peppers can be sown indoors now for planting out when temperatures overnight stay above freezing, generally towards the end of May. This year it can be an interesting project for children to get involved. Kits can be sourced at garden centres using curbside pickup with full instructions. I prefer the one that has peat pucks so no soil is needed to start them, only seeds and follow the method described with the kit.

When it is time to plant outside you will need a line and using a stick or hoe mark where the seeds need to be placed. The packet will tell you how deep and how far apart the seeds will need to be in the row. Then after sowing the seeds water them before covering with soil. Lastly mark the ends of the rows with a marker of some kind -a lollipop stick and felt pen makes a great marker.

Next month I will cover certain steps to keep your beds in shape and growing great vegetables and fruit. I hope you will consider doing this. It is a great pastime and very rewarding when you can eat fresh produce that you have grown.

The Tillsonburg Horticultural Society has cancelled all activities due to Covid 19 and any updates can be found on the website www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca or Facebook Tillsonburghorticultural. Stay home, stay safe and be well.  

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – March 2020
by Angela Lassam

Propagation is a way to expand your garden without too much cost but it takes patience and lots of time. It is a method where gardeners and horticulturists create new plants identical to an original form. There are several ways you can do this – stem cutting, layering and grafting.

 Stem cutting is widely used on softwood shrubs and can be done in early spring when new growth has started. It is best done in the morning when the plant has its most moisture. You will need clean pruners or a sharp knife, pots prepared with potting soil or a good draining mix which has been well watered, a tool (pencil or small stick) to make a hole and some rooting hormone, either powder or liquid.

Take 3”- 4” pieces of plant cuttings just above a leaf node. Dip them in rooting hormone and carefully place each  in a hole made with a stick or pencil. Press down the soil but do not water at this time. You will wash the rooting hormone into the soil if you do this. To aid growth you can top the pot with a plastic bag to retain the humidity needed. Place in a sunny location, wait and watch. This will take four to six weeks before roots get established. A good sign is when you see roots peaking out the bottom of the pot. Now is the time to plant into the garden.

Many plants are done this way in the spring. Some common ones are Hydrangea, Rose of Sharon, Dogwood, Honeysuckle, Mock Orange and Clematis. Fall cuttings can be prepared in the same way, often after leaf drop or late winter before budburst. Our usual garden shrubs are Weigela, Ninebark, Mulberry and Euonymus.

Layering is another way for some plants, mostly low growing type to be reproduced. It can be done at any time of the growing season. Lavender is a good one. Simply graze or rub the soft stem, bend it a little and pin into the soil or make a trench which will secure it better. Water often. It is a slow process but needs little care. If done early in the year there will be new plants to relocate after cutting from main plant in the fall. Cane berries are different as they require their tips to be buried 3”- 4” in the soil to regenerate. Strawberries are natural layering fruit as they produce a new plant on the end of a new growth called a runner. It naturally roots itself when the tip (new plant) touches the ground. 

Grafting is done usually by horticulturalists and nurseries specializing in trees. Many trees purchased in nurseries are grafted types. The method used is taking a strong tree and attaching an often ornamental or flowering tree to the strong rootstock. Fruit trees that are more than one variety are produced this way.

Water rooting is a way anyone can experiment with even if you do not have a garden. Most indoor plants can be used to make new ones for gifts or to add to your own space. You simply need a warm sunny location for your glasses or jars. You need to take a tip 3 – 4” long, stripping off any leaves on the lower part that may reach the water. Fill a jar or glass half full of tepid water and cover the top with foil or paper. Punch several holes if a large top opening. Then you can place cuttings through the holes just into the water. Change the water every three to five days. Place in a sunny window and watch for the roots to form. When  the roots are at least 2” long you can pot them up in potting soil and give as gifts or maybe for a plant sale!!

Perennial herbs will continue to grow in the winter in water giving you fresh herbs all year long. Prepare in the same way as stem cutting but place in water.

Succulents are unique to propagate as you cut the leaves from the main plant and leave them to dry off and scab over. Then place them on the top of a pot of well watered soil. It will take some time to show roots but they will form and reach for the soil that you have kept moist. You can cover with soil once the roots are well established. Once established in the soil they require little care and water. A big mistake is to overwater which causes root rot.

It is always worth the time taken to create new plants for your garden, friends and even for sale. Propagation is just another simple way to do this and enjoy the journey to the end when you see more blooms in your garden at very little cost – just time and patience.

 The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society scheduled for Tuesday April 7th @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex has been cancelled due to the Coronavirus. Watch for details of the May 5 meeting in The Tillsonburg news or look us up on the website www.tillsonburghortictural.ca  and check out Facebook – tillsonburghorticultural

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – February 2020
by Angela Lassam

Now we have many seed company stands in the stores, it is time to make a list of flowers and vegetables we would like to grow. Some gardeners save seed from the year before but be aware they may not grow true. Most of them have their favourites but it is always good to try something new.

During the wintery days when we browse the seed catalogues there is some good advice and helpful information to guide our choices. Some seeds are best directly sown in the garden and others can benefit from indoor seeding to obtain earlier pleasure.

I thought I would tell you about indoor seeding procedures and some pitfalls. Starting kits are great for first time gardeners and children as they are sterile to start. If you are using old trays you must sterilize them. Wash them in soapy water to remove all dirt then use 1 part bleach to 10 parts water and soak for 10 minutes. Even if they were stored away clean they may have picked up mold and insects especially spiders. Sterilize any tools you may be using too.

 Some people use saved seeds or even seeds from the previous year. It is wise to do the ‘baggy method’ to check germination. This is when you take a plate with moist paper towel, sprinkle on a few seeds and seal in a sandwich bag. Wait a few days and check to see how many have sprouted. This will save wasted space and planting materials.

The first seeds to start are usually perennials and other longer germinating seeds. Peppers and tomatoes take longer than flower seeds generally. Marigolds germinate easily but do not cover seeds with soil use just a dusting. 

Some seeds do not do well if started indoors. Cosmos, Zinnias, Nasturtium and Morning Glory are some common ones. Squash, pumpkin, rutabaga, carrots, peas, corn and beans are the vegetables generally directly sown.

Collect all the things you may need – labels, tweezers, pencil for small holes, permanent marker for labeling, plastic covers or sheet plastic, scissors, seed trays and small pots. Now you can start with the longest germinating seeds according to the packet instructions.

The soil for the starting should be a soilless mix preferably as seeds do not need fertiliser until after sprouting and it is of a more fluffy, airy texture for easy growth. It is best taken indoors (maybe overnight) to allow it to be moistened to a soft ball feeling and to be warmed to stop the new seeds from being shocked.

Collect the trays you will be using and fill them 2/3 full of soil. Lightly tap the tray to settle the soil for seeding. Seed packet instructions will tell you the depth of placing the seed. Place 2 or 3 seeds per section or at least 2” apart if using a flat tray. Cover the seed as instructions on the packet as this is important for germination. Some seeds need none or a dusting of cover so follow the packet instructions. Lettuce will not germinate covered. Then lightly mist to settle the seed. Now is the time to label what is sown and the date. Cover with plastic sheeting or place in a plastic bag to retain moisture. Place seed containers in a warm place (at least 70 degrees F.) with as much light as possible but away from draughts. As soon as you see the sprouts remove covering and enjoy watching the growth. 

At this time the sprouts must be misted with a fertilizer solution at least twice a week. This is when mold quickly forms on the surface so sprinkle with cinnamon. Alternately a weak camomile tea will work as an antifungal agent. When the seedlings are approximately 3” and past the two leaf stage transplant the strongest seedlings using potting soil. To slow the growth and leggy appearance move them to a cooler spot. Keep misting as surface appears dry or sit tray in water to soak from the bottom for a short time. Never waterlog them as roots are subject to rot.

Indoor seeding is a jump start to our gardening for the year and it is always a good feeling when the seeds poke up through the soil and are nurtured through to the time we can put them in their place outdoors when there is no risk of frost. 

The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society is on Tuesday March 3rd @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex (north side of Complex by the Skate Park).  The speaker will be Anita Jacobson, Head Gardener at the Stratford Festival, sharing her gardening skills as designer there since 2006.  Everyone welcome, join us for a meeting $4 or become a member for only $20 per year for added benefits. For further information look us up on the website www.tillsonburghortictural.ca  and check out Facebook – tillsonburghorticultural.

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – January 2020
by Angela Lassam

Companion planting is an age-old, time-honoured way of gardening by enhancing productivity naturally without the aid of chemicals. Plants grown together can be improved in both flavour and quality if you know their characteristics. Many years ago a vegetable garden was not only vegetables but a combination of flowers, herbs, vegetables and fruit. Gardeners were wise enough to learn the benefits of placing different plants together. 

The theory behind companion planting has many factors – shade, support, plant health, improved soil and weed suppression. Shade can be natural by planting tall among smaller plants and planting shade loving small vegetables (i.e. radishes) between them. Support is an obvious method by growing climbers with tall vegetables (corn will support cucumbers). This is also known as The Three Sisters where corn supports beans and squash covers the soil. Plant health may sound strange but by growing different types of vegetables near one another they will yield more as they will use different nutrients from the soil. Beans and peas are a good example of fixation of nitrogen in the soil.

Vegetables do better when surrounded by certain herbs. Basil will increase the flavour of both tomatoes and peppers and repel tomato hornworm. Mint (in pots for containment) will prevent slugs and the scent will repel many destructive insects especially the cabbage moth. Garlic grown by beets will improve them. A tea of garlic as a spray may deter Japanese beetles as they do not like the sulphur smell. Cilantro and chives work well against aphids. 

 By using certain seeds grown between vegetables you can encourage pollinators and beneficial insects besides creating a ground cover to suppress weeds. Clover is a good one to grow as it will fill in quickly and as it is a legume will fixate nitrogen in the soil. Farmers know that fall rye sown as a ground cover gives off a chemical which supresses weed germination and when worked in acts as ‘green’ manure.

Buckwheat has been known to cover well and smother weeds with its quick germination. Hoverfly larvae especially like it which eat aphids and other soft bodied insects. It is best sown regularly and discarded to the composter before going to seed. It has the property of making phosphorous more readily available in the soil. Bees are plentiful around it as they are on all the open flowers and help all pollination in the garden. It is a good idea to let some of your garden “go to seed” as the flower heads attract many predatory insects.

Fruit benefits from companion garden practice. All soft fruit will benefit from growing with chives and garlic as the aroma repels many pests and the chive flowers are nectar for many pollinators. Apple trees are pestered by codling moth so plant strong scented lavender near trees. 

Flowers used for specific benefits and to aid pollination are most of the open head type. Cosmos, Zinnias and Calendula are common ones. They are easy to grow and will self seed. Nasturtium are very good as bait for aphids especially under roses but almost anywhere in the garden. Daffodils when grown around the bark of young trees will help stop mice and voles from munching.  Tansy, some may call it an herb, is great for cutworm and is good for pollination. The blue/purple one has a large open interesting flower.  

Companion planting is not new but as we strive to help our environment and try not to use chemicals the knowledge needs to be available to all gardeners new and seasoned. I hope this has given you a thought to grow certain seeds between your regular vegetables. Nature will help all gardeners if we know how to help it in its process.

 The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society is on Tuesday, February 4th @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex (north side of Complex by the Skate Park).  The speaker will be Denise Hodgins who is a garden coach and designer. Topic is “Succulents and Unusual Houseplants”. Everyone welcome, join us for a meeting for $4, or become a member for only $20 per year for added benefits. For further information look us up on the website www.tillsonburghortictural.ca  and check out Facebook – tillsonburghorticultural.