It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – July 2019
by Angela Lassam

It is all looking great and growing well when suddenly the bugs and disease come to destroy your hard work. You do not need to rush to the nursery for help but look inside your home as people did many years ago. Maybe ask Grandma what she would use.

Here are a few ideas, give them a try. You really have nothing to lose as they are almost free. Some of them you may already know but hopefully there will be new ones for the avid gardener.

Epsom salts – contains magnesium sulphate, a major growing element. To help the soil before planting spread 1 cup per 100 square foot and mix well into the soil. When planting out seedlings dig the hole and place a tablespoon in the bottom cover with a small amount of soil and place plant in the hole and finish with soil. You can also apply a liquid form of 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts in 1 gallon of water around the base of any plant. Tomatoes benefit from this and will make them sweeter and less acidic. Peppers are heavy feeders and would benefit from the same. Roses will do better when planted if the root is soaked in a solution of ½ cup in 1 gallon of water. Azaleas and rhododendron turn yellow from a sulphate deficiency and an application of 1 tablespoon over the root zone will help this. Slugs will disappear where salts are sprinkled and it is non-toxic and eco-friendly.

Borax – not only for laundry. It is a great ant killer. Mix sugar, borax and water to make a paste which is easier to control and place spots where they can feed. Rodents and mice can destroy a garden, Borax mixed into the soil is a good deterrent.  Sprinkle on weeds in cracks on pathways and patio stones. Borax and lemon juice will remove rust from gardening tools. Stained gardening gloves can be cleaned with a good soaking of borax.

Coffee grounds and tea – both of these are soil enhancers and can be added to the composter. They can be mixed into the soil around plants. If you place them on top of the soil they will form a hard pad over time so mix in well.

Egg shells are a source of calcium for plants but crushed egg shells are also a deterrent for those insects that like to chew your plants. Half egg shells can make free seed pots. Pierce a hole in the bottom and fill with potting soil, add seed and place back in an egg carton. This is a good project for children who can even paint the shells.

Aspirin – use the non coated type for the garden and plant preservation. Your cut flowers will last longer with a crushed aspirin in the water. Seed soaking will aid germination through its strengthening of the plant’s immune system. As a natural fungicide spraying a solution on tomatoes can lessen the fungal diseases such as fusilarium wilt.

Milk – this one is a newer idea and uses the protein value to benefit plants. It is a complete food with all the necessary minerals your garden will use. A good form of NPK (content of fertilizer). It has certain bacteria which will work against the bad ones in the soil and will act as a fungicide too.

Vinegar and baking soda – these are the common ones most people know. The acid is normally the killer but tends to take longer than other suggestions. 

All of these are either passed on ideas or collected through reading. Some are quite logical when you start to think of their content. When you get problems in the garden you could go to a nursery for advice which could prove expensive. Alternatives found at home are definitely worth a try first.

A big thank you to those who participated in the Tour of Gardens, Beyond the Garden Gate co-hosted by the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society and Station Arts Centre, whether you purchased tickets or volunteered. It was again a great day and if you did not browse the gardens you missed a fun time. We hope to see more next year as it grows with everyone’s support.

Meanwhile happy gardening everyone. Regular monthly meetings for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society will resume Tuesday, September 3^rd @ 7.30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium Tillsonburg Community Complex. 

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It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – June 2019
by Angela Lassam

Roses deserve another chance in our gardens. In the past roses have been a huge challenge but there is a new idea to enable us to help them thrive. They did not seem to survive the cold winters although many ways have been tried. If they came through the winter they soon became pest infested or diseased.

With the new era of no insecticides and other chemical treatments new ideas have proven helpful to the average gardener and this can be seen at the new rose garden in the Royal Botanical Gardens in Hamilton. It has shown that companion planting is beneficial. Plants that have a strong smell keep many insects away. The allium family, Cranesbill (perennial geranium) and Lavender which comes in various colors is a good choice. Many herbs have strong smells and their flowers are very decorative. Chives has a purple flower. Parsley has decorative leaves and various mints can be allowed to go to seed creating a flower. Oregano and some thymes are a good ground cover. Annuals will not compete with the roses so try geraniums, marigolds, alyssum, million bells and pansies.

 There is some interesting reading on www.gardenia.net/guide/Underplanting-Roses.                     

 In the past mulch has been used around the roses and consequently has harboured mold which has created fungal disease. Use companion plants instead. Never water your roses on the leaves but water the soil around them. Blackspot fungus overwinters in fallen leaves and stem cankers so pruning affected canes and removing old dead leaves is a good idea.

The roses to purchase should be the older heirloom species with names that include Alba, Gallica, Centifolia and Damask. Roses grown from the Rosa Rugosa species are the most disease resistant. There is a series of roses under the group of Canadian Shield – one is called Explorer which was introduced for Canada 150 and is deep red and this year there is Chinook Sunrise which is a pale pink with orange edging. These were introduced for the more severe cold winters and rated Zone 3.

You need to decide where is the best spot in your garden for a bed. It is best positioned where it will get morning sun to dry the rose leaves and afternoon shade to prolong the blooms. Next is purchasing them. There are two types available – bare root and container. Bare root roses are packed in moist material and the canes are waxed. There is no need to remove the wax as it will naturally drop off. They need to be soaked in a bucket of water for 8-12 hours to rehydrate the roots. These are usually through mail order. In local nurseries container roses can be found but do your homework and read labels for zone as many roses are for Zone 5. 

Planting is different for roses. For bare root roses dig the hole big enough to take the roots spread well and as deep as the bud union (where it has been grafted). Add bone meal then place the rose in and fill with soil about 2/3, add water making a slurry. DO NOT tamp down, wait for water to drain. Repeat this process to ground level. After settling the bud union will be 1-2 inches below ground level. This is where it should be for winter protection. Place a temporary mound of soil around the base to encourage maximum bud break. Gently wash it away after 2-3 weeks or when new growth looks good.

Container or potted roses can be planted any time but later ones may have the roots tangled and filling the pot. In this case loosen the roots, open up the ball and trim the roots if necessary. Then plant the same as the bare root method.

Roses have been in gardens all over the world, some dating back to the 17^th Century when they were introduced from Asia to Europe. I hope you will give them another chance.

The Tillsonburg Horticultural Society with Station Arts Centre has a tour of gardens, Beyond the Garden Gate, planned for Saturday June 22^nd 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tickets available @ 519 842 6151 are $10 in advance or $12 on the day at any signed garden. It will be an event with something for everyone with local artisans, art, and music throughout the tour of some amazing local gardens.

Regular monthly meetings resume Tuesday, September 3^rd @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Centre. 

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – May 2019
by Angela Lassam

Roadside Ditch Lilies

All gardeners visit nurseries this time of year to buy plants to fill a spot or replace a dead one. Many of them are great to look at and appear exotic but some are very invasive and need to be used in a spot that needs ground cover or at the back of a garden where it can be controlled. Alternatively, the plant can be buried in a large container which you can lift to check that the roots have not escaped. It is more advisable to buy native plants which will thrive just as well.

Here are a few of the listed plants suggested to leave where they are growing in the wild or in the nursery.

• Leafy Spurge (Euphorbia esula) classified as a noxious weed grows rapidly through root system and a heavy seed producer.
• Oxeye Daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum) is a single small daisy and would fill a space but beware.
• Purple Loosestrife is very showy with colorful spikes but can multiply quickly. Often found in clumps in ditches.
• Himalayan Balsam (Poor man’s orchid or Policeman’s helmet) was imported from New Zealand and Asia. It is a very pretty purple flower and low growing but is very prolific.
• Creeping Bellflower as implies has a pretty blue flower but will travel far even under cement and appear in any cracks.
• Trumpet Vine will travel underground and pop up anywhere including your lawn year after year.
• Lily of the valley is very fragrant, pretty and one of the early flowering plants but will strangle all around it.
• We all know the “ditch” lilies on the roadside and they are a bright display of color but let them stay where they are. Yes they are very invasive like so many roadside flowers.
• Many pond plants are invasive. Water hyacinth, flowering rush, yellow flag and lotus are best avoided for a small pond. Do not throw them out into lakes or ditch waterways.
• More information on these and others can be found on www.canadianinvasives.ca.

There is more concern today for any invasion of plants in natural habitat areas. Invasive plants pose a hazard to the environment and human health. Natural waterways get clogged causing flooding and a detriment for agriculture in general.

For people who have contact with any invasive plant there can be many consequences. Severe breathing problems and skin scarring are just some impacts on people. Many plants have a sap which produces an allergic rash. Giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) can cause severe and permanent dermatitis from the toxic oils in its hairs and sap. Professional removal is suggested if it arrives on your property. It is advisable to wear gloves when handling any unknown plants.

For interest Milkweed is a plant that we are encouraged to grow for the Monarch butterfly. The butterfly has no predators because it feeds on the sap in the leaves. This same sap is poisonous and can cause a rash and if a very small amount gets into the eye by rubbing after handling the plant it gives extreme pain and can cause blindness. Always wear gloves and be extremely careful. The leaves even dry in hay can be toxic to animals.

I hope this knowledge helps you to be aware and enjoy your gardens. 

The next meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society will be on Tuesday June 4^th @ 7.30 p.m. in the Senior Centre, Tillsonburg Community Complex. The speaker will be Jay Cossey, a photojournalist who will share stories of butterflies – “the miracle of metamorphosis” with a collection of butterflies and moths.

Everyone welcome. Non-members $2 per meeting or join for extra benefits. Visit us on our website at www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca or Facebook Tillsonburghorticultural for up to date news.  

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – April 2019
by Angela Lassam

It is looking great in all our gardens. The bulbs have survived the winter and are giving us our first burst of spring colour. The perennials are showing new growth, ready to display their glory in late spring and summer.

There are the usual early tasks of branch pickup, raking of leaves and fertilizing the grass. It is now that we can look at our gardens and see what we can improve upon before the mulching begins. A new homeowner can make their yard more inviting and gardeners can change up or renew their garden appearance by defining their flower beds or pathways. There are many products to choose from so here is a breakdown of a few of them.

Most flower beds can be improved by using polymer edging that can be sunk to grass level and hold the soil back from the grass. This is also good for around the base of trees if you like to mulch them. For beds that are deeper there are several options. Concrete decorative wall blocks are easy to lay and come in various shapes to form circles. Field stone will look natural and blend in well as an edge for a flower bed especially if you are trying to create a rockery. Wood used in different ways such as upright short posts placed beside each other can be decorative. For square or rectangular designs use wooden posts laid flat to create an edge. You can use wood layered up to form a raised bed for vegetables.

The same work using wood or stone can apply to making a path where you can fill in between with paving blocks, poured concrete or stone. If you desire a clean look to your pathways there are professional companies who can make edging in various textures, colours and unusual shapes. You must remember this would be permanent and needs to be considered into the landscape appearance in the future.

As a DIY project think of making some personalised stepping stones from concrete to make a path. Leaves as imprints pressed into the concrete before setting can be washed off when they are dry. Maybe grandchildren’s’ footprints or hands pressed into the top could make them personal. Shells used the same way would give the surface a grip. Glass or broken china used as a decoration could be a future talking point. You can use tin foil pans or make wooden frames as the molds. There are endless ideas and can be fun to do.

The Junior Gardeners Program has started with the registration forms available in the schools. The theme is “Planting a Rainbow Garden”. It is important that children learn where their food comes from and experience the pleasure of eating what they grow. Volunteers will judge the gardens and a Pizza Party with awards will finish the program. For further information contact Pat Zeyen phone # 519 983 2928 or email: patzeyen@gmail.com 

Coming in May the Annual Auction and Plant Sale organized by the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society has been planned for Tuesday May 21^st in the Lions Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex. Doors will be open at a NEW TIME of 5:00 p.m. and the auction starts at 6:00 p.m. There will be annuals, perennials, herbs, shrubs and trees. Also a Bake Sale, draws and garden decor so something for all. Refreshments available. Proceeds allow the Society to do the work necessary to make Tillsonburg beautiful for all. 

 The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society will be on Tuesday May 7th @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium Tillsonburg Community Complex. Brenda Campbell from Cozyns Garden Gallery, Stratford will demonstrate planting a hanging basket and talk about what’s new this year. Everyone welcome. Non-members $2 per meeting or join for extra benefits. Visit us on our website at www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca or Facebook Tillsonburghorticultural for up to date news.    

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – March 2019
by Angela Lassam

As the days get longer we look upon our gardens and feel we should start to tidy up. The first chore to do is to work on trees and shrubs before they show signs of growth and show their leaves.

Pruning is a question often asked as to when and what to remove. It is a learning curve but all you need to know is which trees/shrubs should be pruned in early spring and why it is beneficial.

 There is a rule of four Ds-dead, dying, diseased and damaged. This will show you what needs removing. Winter weather breaks any branches that are dead. Thin branches show up easily without the leaves. You can see the vertical ones called water spouts which on fruit trees will never carry fruit. Any crossing branches will need to be cut out. These will cause disease by rubbing and cutting out will allow the tree to breathe. Fruit trees need to be very open to produce good fruit. All lower branches need to be trimmed to avoid eye poking when going under trees or enjoying the shade in summer.

You will need to start with clean sharp tools, a pair of pruners for the small work and lopping shears for larger branches. There are extendable ones for taller work. Longer strong work gloves are helpful as cuttings will be sharp and sometimes heavy. 

Most trees need pruning while dormant so early in the year is better. All cuts should be diagonal to avoid end rot. The cut will heal quickly. New growth will look good when you have shaped the tree and opened up the centre. New branches will grow in the right direction. Fruit trees will give more fruit. The more aggressive you are the better the results.

Vines and climbers need very little attention apart from the 4 Ds. Again,  remove dead, diseased, dying and damaged parts. Silver vine, passionflower and trumpet vine flower on new wood. Mandevilla flowers on old wood and needs very little pruning. All vines need training to your desired shape and trimmed to allow air for them to breathe.

Grape vines if grown cordoned need vigorous pruning. Cut them back in early spring to the rusty brown wood as they only form clusters on new wood. Any bleeding is only water and will do no harm.  

Shrubs that flower early can in general be pruned when being deadheaded as they flower on old wood. Forsythia, Dogwood and Rhododendron are some of these shrubs. Hydrangea paniculata, rose of Sharon and buddleja are different. They set their buds on new wood. They often bloom best if they have been cut back while dormant in late winter to encourage more new wood to form.

An interesting fact about lilacs – a layer of wood ashes and preferably hardwood provide them with many minerals (copper, zinc and calcium) and trace elements that is an extra benefit for them.                                

Perennials can be improved by being cut back in the fall unless you like to see the flower heads for interest in the winter snow. They will need the centre to be cleaned out as soon as new bottom growth is seen. This is also the time to judge whether cleaning and pruning is enough or if they need to be split up to improve flowering. Remember the Horticultural Society has its annual plant auction in May and now is the time for members to pot up some plants as a contribution.

Pruning is difficult for gardeners as it appears destructive and harsh but the rewards will be seen in the summer. It seems that pruning is a constant task for the gardener who knows there is always something to be done. 

The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society will be on Tuesday 2^nd April @ 7.30 p.m. in the Senior Centre, Tillsonburg Community Centre. The speaker will be David Chapman with the topic of “Storm Chasing in Ontario” featuring a video of a super cell tornado. Everyone welcome. there is a $2 per meeting fee or join for extra benefits. For further information on the society look on Facebook tillsonburghorticultural or www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca