by Angela Lassam
It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – April 2020

We are all wondering where we will be in the coming months. The STAY AT HOME rule has been difficult for some of us especially the on the go families who had many activities to keep them busy. There has been an upsurge in people researching ‘grow your own food’ and many of you are first time gardeners apart from cutting the grass and planting a few annual flowers. Check out  www.savvygardening.com  and a Facebook group called Ontario Gardeners which is a great source for information. Now that you are considering growing vegetables and even some fruit I thought some basic knowledge should be shared.

Before you start any actual gardening you need to look for a sunny south facing spot, remember the sun rises in the East and sets in the West so watch for your day shadows. Set out your design with the wider part facing the sun. This will allow you to grow the shorter vegetables in the front progressing to the largest towards the back. Seed packets give you all the information you will need to do this.

Next decide whether you are going to have a raised bed or directly on the ground. Sometimes it is easier to do a raised bed as turf can be difficult to strip. A raised bed can be made from concrete blocks or wood – cedar or untreated 2’’ x 6” would work well. You will only need to do an 8’ x 4’ bed to start as it is easier to manage and you will be surprised how much you can grow in that space with some planning. My suggestion is to line them by placing old newspaper or cardboard in the bottom to supress weeds especially grass and fill with topsoil.

Next is to decide what you would like to grow. Buying your seeds is simple – even the grocery stores usually have a seed stand or check with local nurseries and order seeds for curbside pickup. They can be found on Facebook where you can message an order.

 The easiest and most common vegetables are peas, beans, carrots, beets and Swiss chard. Small vegetables could be radishes, lettuce, spinach and some herbs. Trailing plants are generally zucchini, cucumber and squash (these need space so plant in a corner or one end and allow to trail outside the bed or set up a trellis). A planned layout on paper will keep you on track for when you start to sow the seeds. All spacing and other information is on the back of every seed packet. It is common to set rows at least 18” apart but in raised beds they can be nearer.

 Lastly tomatoes and peppers can be sown indoors now for planting out when temperatures overnight stay above freezing, generally towards the end of May. This year it can be an interesting project for children to get involved. Kits can be sourced at garden centres using curbside pickup with full instructions. I prefer the one that has peat pucks so no soil is needed to start them, only seeds and follow the method described with the kit.

When it is time to plant outside you will need a line and using a stick or hoe mark where the seeds need to be placed. The packet will tell you how deep and how far apart the seeds will need to be in the row. Then after sowing the seeds water them before covering with soil. Lastly mark the ends of the rows with a marker of some kind -a lollipop stick and felt pen makes a great marker.

Next month I will cover certain steps to keep your beds in shape and growing great vegetables and fruit. I hope you will consider doing this. It is a great pastime and very rewarding when you can eat fresh produce that you have grown.

The Tillsonburg Horticultural Society has cancelled all activities due to Covid 19 and any updates can be found on the website www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca or Facebook Tillsonburghorticultural. Stay home, stay safe and be well.  

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – March 2020
by Angela Lassam

Propagation is a way to expand your garden without too much cost but it takes patience and lots of time. It is a method where gardeners and horticulturists create new plants identical to an original form. There are several ways you can do this – stem cutting, layering and grafting.

 Stem cutting is widely used on softwood shrubs and can be done in early spring when new growth has started. It is best done in the morning when the plant has its most moisture. You will need clean pruners or a sharp knife, pots prepared with potting soil or a good draining mix which has been well watered, a tool (pencil or small stick) to make a hole and some rooting hormone, either powder or liquid.

Take 3”- 4” pieces of plant cuttings just above a leaf node. Dip them in rooting hormone and carefully place each  in a hole made with a stick or pencil. Press down the soil but do not water at this time. You will wash the rooting hormone into the soil if you do this. To aid growth you can top the pot with a plastic bag to retain the humidity needed. Place in a sunny location, wait and watch. This will take four to six weeks before roots get established. A good sign is when you see roots peaking out the bottom of the pot. Now is the time to plant into the garden.

Many plants are done this way in the spring. Some common ones are Hydrangea, Rose of Sharon, Dogwood, Honeysuckle, Mock Orange and Clematis. Fall cuttings can be prepared in the same way, often after leaf drop or late winter before budburst. Our usual garden shrubs are Weigela, Ninebark, Mulberry and Euonymus.

Layering is another way for some plants, mostly low growing type to be reproduced. It can be done at any time of the growing season. Lavender is a good one. Simply graze or rub the soft stem, bend it a little and pin into the soil or make a trench which will secure it better. Water often. It is a slow process but needs little care. If done early in the year there will be new plants to relocate after cutting from main plant in the fall. Cane berries are different as they require their tips to be buried 3”- 4” in the soil to regenerate. Strawberries are natural layering fruit as they produce a new plant on the end of a new growth called a runner. It naturally roots itself when the tip (new plant) touches the ground. 

Grafting is done usually by horticulturalists and nurseries specializing in trees. Many trees purchased in nurseries are grafted types. The method used is taking a strong tree and attaching an often ornamental or flowering tree to the strong rootstock. Fruit trees that are more than one variety are produced this way.

Water rooting is a way anyone can experiment with even if you do not have a garden. Most indoor plants can be used to make new ones for gifts or to add to your own space. You simply need a warm sunny location for your glasses or jars. You need to take a tip 3 – 4” long, stripping off any leaves on the lower part that may reach the water. Fill a jar or glass half full of tepid water and cover the top with foil or paper. Punch several holes if a large top opening. Then you can place cuttings through the holes just into the water. Change the water every three to five days. Place in a sunny window and watch for the roots to form. When  the roots are at least 2” long you can pot them up in potting soil and give as gifts or maybe for a plant sale!!

Perennial herbs will continue to grow in the winter in water giving you fresh herbs all year long. Prepare in the same way as stem cutting but place in water.

Succulents are unique to propagate as you cut the leaves from the main plant and leave them to dry off and scab over. Then place them on the top of a pot of well watered soil. It will take some time to show roots but they will form and reach for the soil that you have kept moist. You can cover with soil once the roots are well established. Once established in the soil they require little care and water. A big mistake is to overwater which causes root rot.

It is always worth the time taken to create new plants for your garden, friends and even for sale. Propagation is just another simple way to do this and enjoy the journey to the end when you see more blooms in your garden at very little cost – just time and patience.

 The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society scheduled for Tuesday April 7th @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex has been cancelled due to the Coronavirus. Watch for details of the May 5 meeting in The Tillsonburg news or look us up on the website www.tillsonburghortictural.ca  and check out Facebook – tillsonburghorticultural

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – February 2020
by Angela Lassam

Now we have many seed company stands in the stores, it is time to make a list of flowers and vegetables we would like to grow. Some gardeners save seed from the year before but be aware they may not grow true. Most of them have their favourites but it is always good to try something new.

During the wintery days when we browse the seed catalogues there is some good advice and helpful information to guide our choices. Some seeds are best directly sown in the garden and others can benefit from indoor seeding to obtain earlier pleasure.

I thought I would tell you about indoor seeding procedures and some pitfalls. Starting kits are great for first time gardeners and children as they are sterile to start. If you are using old trays you must sterilize them. Wash them in soapy water to remove all dirt then use 1 part bleach to 10 parts water and soak for 10 minutes. Even if they were stored away clean they may have picked up mold and insects especially spiders. Sterilize any tools you may be using too.

 Some people use saved seeds or even seeds from the previous year. It is wise to do the ‘baggy method’ to check germination. This is when you take a plate with moist paper towel, sprinkle on a few seeds and seal in a sandwich bag. Wait a few days and check to see how many have sprouted. This will save wasted space and planting materials.

The first seeds to start are usually perennials and other longer germinating seeds. Peppers and tomatoes take longer than flower seeds generally. Marigolds germinate easily but do not cover seeds with soil use just a dusting. 

Some seeds do not do well if started indoors. Cosmos, Zinnias, Nasturtium and Morning Glory are some common ones. Squash, pumpkin, rutabaga, carrots, peas, corn and beans are the vegetables generally directly sown.

Collect all the things you may need – labels, tweezers, pencil for small holes, permanent marker for labeling, plastic covers or sheet plastic, scissors, seed trays and small pots. Now you can start with the longest germinating seeds according to the packet instructions.

The soil for the starting should be a soilless mix preferably as seeds do not need fertiliser until after sprouting and it is of a more fluffy, airy texture for easy growth. It is best taken indoors (maybe overnight) to allow it to be moistened to a soft ball feeling and to be warmed to stop the new seeds from being shocked.

Collect the trays you will be using and fill them 2/3 full of soil. Lightly tap the tray to settle the soil for seeding. Seed packet instructions will tell you the depth of placing the seed. Place 2 or 3 seeds per section or at least 2” apart if using a flat tray. Cover the seed as instructions on the packet as this is important for germination. Some seeds need none or a dusting of cover so follow the packet instructions. Lettuce will not germinate covered. Then lightly mist to settle the seed. Now is the time to label what is sown and the date. Cover with plastic sheeting or place in a plastic bag to retain moisture. Place seed containers in a warm place (at least 70 degrees F.) with as much light as possible but away from draughts. As soon as you see the sprouts remove covering and enjoy watching the growth. 

At this time the sprouts must be misted with a fertilizer solution at least twice a week. This is when mold quickly forms on the surface so sprinkle with cinnamon. Alternately a weak camomile tea will work as an antifungal agent. When the seedlings are approximately 3” and past the two leaf stage transplant the strongest seedlings using potting soil. To slow the growth and leggy appearance move them to a cooler spot. Keep misting as surface appears dry or sit tray in water to soak from the bottom for a short time. Never waterlog them as roots are subject to rot.

Indoor seeding is a jump start to our gardening for the year and it is always a good feeling when the seeds poke up through the soil and are nurtured through to the time we can put them in their place outdoors when there is no risk of frost. 

The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society is on Tuesday March 3rd @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex (north side of Complex by the Skate Park).  The speaker will be Anita Jacobson, Head Gardener at the Stratford Festival, sharing her gardening skills as designer there since 2006.  Everyone welcome, join us for a meeting $4 or become a member for only $20 per year for added benefits. For further information look us up on the website www.tillsonburghortictural.ca  and check out Facebook – tillsonburghorticultural.

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – January 2020
by Angela Lassam

Companion planting is an age-old, time-honoured way of gardening by enhancing productivity naturally without the aid of chemicals. Plants grown together can be improved in both flavour and quality if you know their characteristics. Many years ago a vegetable garden was not only vegetables but a combination of flowers, herbs, vegetables and fruit. Gardeners were wise enough to learn the benefits of placing different plants together. 

The theory behind companion planting has many factors – shade, support, plant health, improved soil and weed suppression. Shade can be natural by planting tall among smaller plants and planting shade loving small vegetables (i.e. radishes) between them. Support is an obvious method by growing climbers with tall vegetables (corn will support cucumbers). This is also known as The Three Sisters where corn supports beans and squash covers the soil. Plant health may sound strange but by growing different types of vegetables near one another they will yield more as they will use different nutrients from the soil. Beans and peas are a good example of fixation of nitrogen in the soil.

Vegetables do better when surrounded by certain herbs. Basil will increase the flavour of both tomatoes and peppers and repel tomato hornworm. Mint (in pots for containment) will prevent slugs and the scent will repel many destructive insects especially the cabbage moth. Garlic grown by beets will improve them. A tea of garlic as a spray may deter Japanese beetles as they do not like the sulphur smell. Cilantro and chives work well against aphids. 

 By using certain seeds grown between vegetables you can encourage pollinators and beneficial insects besides creating a ground cover to suppress weeds. Clover is a good one to grow as it will fill in quickly and as it is a legume will fixate nitrogen in the soil. Farmers know that fall rye sown as a ground cover gives off a chemical which supresses weed germination and when worked in acts as ‘green’ manure.

Buckwheat has been known to cover well and smother weeds with its quick germination. Hoverfly larvae especially like it which eat aphids and other soft bodied insects. It is best sown regularly and discarded to the composter before going to seed. It has the property of making phosphorous more readily available in the soil. Bees are plentiful around it as they are on all the open flowers and help all pollination in the garden. It is a good idea to let some of your garden “go to seed” as the flower heads attract many predatory insects.

Fruit benefits from companion garden practice. All soft fruit will benefit from growing with chives and garlic as the aroma repels many pests and the chive flowers are nectar for many pollinators. Apple trees are pestered by codling moth so plant strong scented lavender near trees. 

Flowers used for specific benefits and to aid pollination are most of the open head type. Cosmos, Zinnias and Calendula are common ones. They are easy to grow and will self seed. Nasturtium are very good as bait for aphids especially under roses but almost anywhere in the garden. Daffodils when grown around the bark of young trees will help stop mice and voles from munching.  Tansy, some may call it an herb, is great for cutworm and is good for pollination. The blue/purple one has a large open interesting flower.  

Companion planting is not new but as we strive to help our environment and try not to use chemicals the knowledge needs to be available to all gardeners new and seasoned. I hope this has given you a thought to grow certain seeds between your regular vegetables. Nature will help all gardeners if we know how to help it in its process.

 The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society is on Tuesday, February 4th @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex (north side of Complex by the Skate Park).  The speaker will be Denise Hodgins who is a garden coach and designer. Topic is “Succulents and Unusual Houseplants”. Everyone welcome, join us for a meeting for $4, or become a member for only $20 per year for added benefits. For further information look us up on the website www.tillsonburghortictural.ca  and check out Facebook – tillsonburghorticultural.

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – December 2019
by Angela Lassam

I received an indoor living arrangement as a Christmas gift and noticed that there was no care instructions or plant labels. After Christmas you can remove all the ornaments and any arrangement can live on to give health benefits. I thought this gives me an opportunity to share my knowledge with you.

 This is a breakdown of some of the plants found in arrangements, some of which you may already know

Bamboo – tall, can reach 12’ before needs repotting. Another tall one is Snake plant or Mother-in-laws Tongue. It is hard to kill so good for a novice. Fig tree, palms and Umbrella tree are large so need space but add color and life to a large entry or similar space. Minimal watering is needed.

Hanging plants – Spider plant is a common shared plant as it multiplies well and can provide new plants from its trailing pieces. They will root easily in water and grow well for you to share. An old favorite is Philodendron, an ivy type vine which likes indirect light and can be persuaded round windows, doorways and arches or on any trellis structure. Beware they are poisonous to pets and children.

Singular plants are most often Boston Fern which is an old favorite, a Spider plant, Snake plant to name a few. Aloe Vera is a good plant for a kitchen or bathroom. It is difficult to kill, likes humidity and is the one plant that its leaves have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. You can break a leaf and use its juices as a quick first aid.

 An arrangement of indoor plants will probably have a Chinese money plant which has round penny shaped leaves or a Chinese evergreen with a variegated leaf which will produce a white flower and red berries, an ivy and maybe a type of palm. A liquid fertiliser in the water when needed will help them thrive. Spritzing shiny leaves with tepid water can be advantageous.

One small tip I learned – for aphids (small white bugs) use rubbing alcohol on a q tip , wiped on the bugs will remove them. 

Plants for indoors can reduce the VOCs in the air most of which comes from paint on walls, carpet, furniture and many cleaning products. Many indoor plants filter formaldehyde, benzene, xylene and carbon monoxide from the air. These can create the ‘sick building syndrome’. Most are poisonous to children and pets if ingested so always place out of reach or hang up.

 Any plant gives more benefits through adding life to the home space besides their air purifying uses. Watching their changes and growth adds to one’s well being and a plant as a gift is sometimes given with that thought.

As we enter the New Year I hope it will be a healthy prosperous 2020 for all. 

The next meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society will be on Tuesday January 7^th 2020 @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre, Tillsonburg Community Complex (north side by the Skate Park). Dr. Allyson MacDonald, a member, will give a presentation –  English Roses, David Austen and Beyond with a photo montage of roses at their peak followed by refreshments and social time.  Members please note it is membership renewal time, $20 for the year. New members always welcome, come for a meeting $4 or join for extra benefits. 

More information can be found on www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca or Facebook Tillsonburghorticultural.  

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – October 2019
by Angela Lassam

Everywhere the colours have become red, orange and gold. Gone are the vibrant greens and summer colours. In an effort to hold onto summer colours a little longer I decided to visit local nurseries and get their stories on the items most people looked for this year. This is a breakdown of their replies.

Annuals are the summer flowers for their endless colour. The Vista Series petunias were the most popular variety specifically for their form and un-necessary de-heading but million bells topped their sales this year. Vibrant colors and double flowers were mostly what people looked for. Geraniums were a popular designer filler as always. There was a new variety of Impatiens this year called Imar that was mildew resistant, a good choice with the wet summer we had.

Perennials are still ever popular. Pollinator plants for the bees and butterflies, (especially milkweed) were in great demand. Grasses were desired for their value against fences and their ease of maintenance.

Hydrangeas were the favourite flowering bushes especially the newer dwarf varieties as gardens become smaller. All flowering bushes are great for the bees and butterflies. Variegated leaf and early leafing bushes seemed popular.

Ornamental trees top the list for trees – redbud, dogwood and magnolias. Smaller grafted ones (lilac and hydrangeas) were chosen for the smaller landscapes. For the larger gardens native species are still requested for shade. oak, sugar maple and sycamore are the best known ones. A maple tree called Autumn Blaze with excellent characteristics was sought out this year. It is fast growing, has excellent shape, is great for shade and NO seeds. To top it off it has a brilliant fall colour.

Everyone has a place for a hanging basket, patio container or small outdoor table to enjoy some flowers. Popular fillers were petunias and million bells with vines and other trailing plants. Bright colors and various textures were sought out for the summer. No longer is it just flowers in containers but herbs, soft fruits and even vegetables were planted. People are turning to the thought of grow your own even in a pot on the patio or deck.

Now as winter approaches ideas of succulents for small spaces and tropical plants to clean our indoor air is on people’s wish lists. Easy care ensures their popularity.

I hope you have learned some ideas for next year as gardeners have the habit of changing their spaces every year.

In September the Junior Gardener Program ended on a high note with the Awards & Friendship Party. Participants received a certificate with a photo of their garden. Medals were awarded for 1^st, 2^nd and 3^rd in each age group.

Pizza and ice cream was served and a draw of garden related items for the gardeners added to the event. A big thank you goes out to all the children, parents and volunteers who helped make this program a great success and hopefully an even greater one next year.

 The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society is on Tuesday, November 5th @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex (north side by the skate park). This month Matt and Linda Fenn will be demonstrating decor for Christmas.

Check out the website www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca or facebook – tillsonburghorticultural for more information. Everyone welcome, join us for a meeting ($2) or become a member for only $20 per year for added benefits.

   

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – September 2019
by Angela Lassam

We call a person who does gardening a ‘gardener’ but it does little to paint a picture of that person’s capabilities and attributes.

Some people become gardeners because of past generations or know of a person who enjoys gardening, but have you ever thought of the words you can apply to the word gardener and think of words that describe their personality. 

A gardener long ago was someone who cut grass, trimmed hedges and had regimented beds of annual flowers. A vegetable garden, then known as a plot, was grown to help the family budget and allow for preserving for winter use. Now a gardener is someone who feels strongly about the loss of the pollinators, bats, frogs, birds and the wildlife habitat and gardens to help this. Millennials are wanting to get back to nature and teach their children through gardening how important it is to know where some of their food comes from and its quality. A new gardener may be a retiree who is just looking to enhance their surroundings without too much maintenance.

I should include farmers and horticulturalists as they do ‘gardening’ on a larger scale. They sow the seeds, take care of their soil and thus provide food for everyone. Some have not been good housekeepers of our earth in the past but have become aware of their impact worldwide and are working on improving their practices. They are leaving some scrubland to return to its natural form for all wildlife to share and thrive.

The gardeners’ character evolves from their diligence throughout their life. They show patience waiting for seeds to grow. There is hope when they watch the garden change throughout the seasons. Satisfaction when they reap the rewards of their hard work. Gardeners are generally very generous with their knowledge and sharing of plants and produce grown in their garden. They are healthier than some because of fresh food without chemicals, spending more time outdoors whether tending the garden or doing activities like walking, biking and birding.  

  So a job description of a gardener could read – eco-friendly, landscape designer, water manager, habitat builder, teacher and nature preserver and many more.

Members of the Society please remember the Photo Competition at the next meeting. Details are in the Tillogram or can be found on the website. It is easy to look through your photos, bring to the meeting and share with friends. 

The next monthly meeting for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society is on Tuesday, October 1st @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Complex (north side by the skate park). The speaker will be Sean James, Master Gardener and writer. The topic is “It doesn’t end in August”, a month by month study from September to December and beyond in the garden.

Check out the website www.tillsonburghorticultural.ca or facebook – tillsonburghorticultural. Everyone welcome, join us for a meeting $2 or become a member for only $20 per year for added benefits.

     

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – August 2019
by Angela Lassam

During a walk round the garden I noticed it is becoming crowded. I am guessing it is time to consider working on the early flowering perennials. They need digging up, splitting and replanting or sharing with fellow gardeners.

There are two in particular that have distinct treatment. These are lilies and the bearded iris.

Asiatic and oriental lilies are bulbs that naturalize over time similar to any spring bulb. It is suggested to keep a profusion of blooms. You need to lift the area of the original bulb where you will find several bulblets and larger bulbs, these will give you new flowers. When the plant is turning yellow the naturalization has been completed for the year and you can do your separating. Planting is the same as spring bulbs. Place the bigger bulbs 6” in the soil and smaller ones not so deep. A clump of three or more makes for a good display. Add extra mulch over new planting to add insulation for the winter.

Daylilies are not bulbs but a root with fanlike sections of growth. A clump of daylilies with a dead centre is a sign of needing division. It is suggested to separate every two to three years for maximum blooms. Lift the root ball carefully and shake off as much soil as possible. This is when you will see the fanlike sections. Carefully pull them apart keeping three fans with roots for replanting. A hole at least 12” deep is needed and a mound left in the centre. Take the new root ball and spread the roots around the mound. Fill in making sure to leave no air pockets. A deep watering of manure tea will finish the task and help the plant establish before winter. 

Bearded iris are rhizomes and should be divided every two to three years, otherwise they will slowly flower less. The rhizomes will work to the top of the soil and rot and borer damage will occur. Gather together tools – fork or spade, hose for rinsing, scissors, knife or pruners and a tarp for easy cleanup. Using a spade or fork carefully lift all of the clump. Clean off all soil first by shaking and then using a garden hose. This will allow you to inspect for any damage. At this time you can cut the foliage down to 6” to make easier handling. Borer damage is tiny holes in the rhizome and the leaves may have dark streaks in them. Any soft spots are a sign of soft rot. Both of these need to be cut out with pruners or a sharp knife. Disinfect tools after doing this. Now you can split the rhizome to make new plants. You will have several leaf fans on the rhizome and you need one fan and a good piece of rhizome each side. Take the knife or pruners and cleanly dissect it making several new plants. Next is soil preparation. The hole does not need to be deep as Iris do not like to be far below the surface. The hole will need a mound for the rhizome to “sit” on to keep it just below the surface. Place the rhizome on the mound spreading the roots around. Top up with soil and water well. They do not need fertilizer unlike lilies.

This gardening task is best done in the morning so moisture loss is at a minimum. You will be rewarded next year with better flowers and a tidier looking flower bed. As a bonus you will have many plants to share as you will not need them, or maybe start another flower bed!

Monthly meetings for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society will resume on Tuesday, September 3^rd @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre, Tillsonburg Community Centre. Speaker is Nick Vanderheide of Creekside Growers talking about his dahlia operation. Regular members and new always welcome. Refreshment and social time for all.

It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – July 2019
by Angela Lassam

It is all looking great and growing well when suddenly the bugs and disease come to destroy your hard work. You do not need to rush to the nursery for help but look inside your home as people did many years ago. Maybe ask Grandma what she would use.

Here are a few ideas, give them a try. You really have nothing to lose as they are almost free. Some of them you may already know but hopefully there will be new ones for the avid gardener.

Epsom salts – contains magnesium sulphate, a major growing element. To help the soil before planting spread 1 cup per 100 square foot and mix well into the soil. When planting out seedlings dig the hole and place a tablespoon in the bottom cover with a small amount of soil and place plant in the hole and finish with soil. You can also apply a liquid form of 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts in 1 gallon of water around the base of any plant. Tomatoes benefit from this and will make them sweeter and less acidic. Peppers are heavy feeders and would benefit from the same. Roses will do better when planted if the root is soaked in a solution of ½ cup in 1 gallon of water. Azaleas and rhododendron turn yellow from a sulphate deficiency and an application of 1 tablespoon over the root zone will help this. Slugs will disappear where salts are sprinkled and it is non-toxic and eco-friendly.

Borax – not only for laundry. It is a great ant killer. Mix sugar, borax and water to make a paste which is easier to control and place spots where they can feed. Rodents and mice can destroy a garden, Borax mixed into the soil is a good deterrent.  Sprinkle on weeds in cracks on pathways and patio stones. Borax and lemon juice will remove rust from gardening tools. Stained gardening gloves can be cleaned with a good soaking of borax.

Coffee grounds and tea – both of these are soil enhancers and can be added to the composter. They can be mixed into the soil around plants. If you place them on top of the soil they will form a hard pad over time so mix in well.

Egg shells are a source of calcium for plants but crushed egg shells are also a deterrent for those insects that like to chew your plants. Half egg shells can make free seed pots. Pierce a hole in the bottom and fill with potting soil, add seed and place back in an egg carton. This is a good project for children who can even paint the shells.

Aspirin – use the non coated type for the garden and plant preservation. Your cut flowers will last longer with a crushed aspirin in the water. Seed soaking will aid germination through its strengthening of the plant’s immune system. As a natural fungicide spraying a solution on tomatoes can lessen the fungal diseases such as fusilarium wilt.

Milk – this one is a newer idea and uses the protein value to benefit plants. It is a complete food with all the necessary minerals your garden will use. A good form of NPK (content of fertilizer). It has certain bacteria which will work against the bad ones in the soil and will act as a fungicide too.

Vinegar and baking soda – these are the common ones most people know. The acid is normally the killer but tends to take longer than other suggestions. 

All of these are either passed on ideas or collected through reading. Some are quite logical when you start to think of their content. When you get problems in the garden you could go to a nursery for advice which could prove expensive. Alternatives found at home are definitely worth a try first.

A big thank you to those who participated in the Tour of Gardens, Beyond the Garden Gate co-hosted by the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society and Station Arts Centre, whether you purchased tickets or volunteered. It was again a great day and if you did not browse the gardens you missed a fun time. We hope to see more next year as it grows with everyone’s support.

Meanwhile happy gardening everyone. Regular monthly meetings for the Tillsonburg Horticultural Society will resume Tuesday, September 3^rd @ 7.30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium Tillsonburg Community Complex. 

 

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It’s Still Just Dirt, The Tillsonburg News – June 2019
by Angela Lassam

Roses deserve another chance in our gardens. In the past roses have been a huge challenge but there is a new idea to enable us to help them thrive. They did not seem to survive the cold winters although many ways have been tried. If they came through the winter they soon became pest infested or diseased.

With the new era of no insecticides and other chemical treatments new ideas have proven helpful to the average gardener and this can be seen at the new rose garden in the Royal Botanical Gardens in Hamilton. It has shown that companion planting is beneficial. Plants that have a strong smell keep many insects away. The allium family, Cranesbill (perennial geranium) and Lavender which comes in various colors is a good choice. Many herbs have strong smells and their flowers are very decorative. Chives has a purple flower. Parsley has decorative leaves and various mints can be allowed to go to seed creating a flower. Oregano and some thymes are a good ground cover. Annuals will not compete with the roses so try geraniums, marigolds, alyssum, million bells and pansies.

 There is some interesting reading on www.gardenia.net/guide/Underplanting-Roses.                     

 In the past mulch has been used around the roses and consequently has harboured mold which has created fungal disease. Use companion plants instead. Never water your roses on the leaves but water the soil around them. Blackspot fungus overwinters in fallen leaves and stem cankers so pruning affected canes and removing old dead leaves is a good idea.

The roses to purchase should be the older heirloom species with names that include Alba, Gallica, Centifolia and Damask. Roses grown from the Rosa Rugosa species are the most disease resistant. There is a series of roses under the group of Canadian Shield – one is called Explorer which was introduced for Canada 150 and is deep red and this year there is Chinook Sunrise which is a pale pink with orange edging. These were introduced for the more severe cold winters and rated Zone 3.

You need to decide where is the best spot in your garden for a bed. It is best positioned where it will get morning sun to dry the rose leaves and afternoon shade to prolong the blooms. Next is purchasing them. There are two types available – bare root and container. Bare root roses are packed in moist material and the canes are waxed. There is no need to remove the wax as it will naturally drop off. They need to be soaked in a bucket of water for 8-12 hours to rehydrate the roots. These are usually through mail order. In local nurseries container roses can be found but do your homework and read labels for zone as many roses are for Zone 5. 

Planting is different for roses. For bare root roses dig the hole big enough to take the roots spread well and as deep as the bud union (where it has been grafted). Add bone meal then place the rose in and fill with soil about 2/3, add water making a slurry. DO NOT tamp down, wait for water to drain. Repeat this process to ground level. After settling the bud union will be 1-2 inches below ground level. This is where it should be for winter protection. Place a temporary mound of soil around the base to encourage maximum bud break. Gently wash it away after 2-3 weeks or when new growth looks good.

Container or potted roses can be planted any time but later ones may have the roots tangled and filling the pot. In this case loosen the roots, open up the ball and trim the roots if necessary. Then plant the same as the bare root method.

Roses have been in gardens all over the world, some dating back to the 17^th Century when they were introduced from Asia to Europe. I hope you will give them another chance.

The Tillsonburg Horticultural Society with Station Arts Centre has a tour of gardens, Beyond the Garden Gate, planned for Saturday June 22^nd 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tickets available @ 519 842 6151 are $10 in advance or $12 on the day at any signed garden. It will be an event with something for everyone with local artisans, art, and music throughout the tour of some amazing local gardens.

Regular monthly meetings resume Tuesday, September 3^rd @ 7:30 p.m. in the Senior Centre Auditorium, Tillsonburg Community Centre.